I always appreciate good Italian food. Probably comes from having been brought up in a largely Italian neighborhood and all the Italian mothers and grandmothers who wanted to fatten up the scrawny kid down the block. Wish now, when I step on the scale, they hadn’t been so successful. Really can’t blame them for my overweight body and I did get to appreciate good, wholesome, authentic Italian Cuisine. And it brings me back to the old neighborhood when I stumble across this style of cooking when I’m dinning out.
Such is the case with Ciao in Thomaston. We were there a week ago to celebrate Happy’s birthday belatedly. Made a reservation with Open Table. Got a call as we were heading out the door that informed us that the only seating for out seven o’clock time slot was outside on their patio. Gave us some pause but we dressed for the chill and went.
When we arrived at the restaurant, the outside patio was full, but the patrons appeared cold and fidgety as we walked by from the parking lot. There were only a couple of tables occupied inside, and we were exhorted by the young man who seated up to, “Take any table you like”. We chose a both out of the weather, inside and were glad we did. It was not long before folks were opting to abandon the tables outside for the relative warmth inside. What was an empty space became a packed establishment. Tables had been spaced in deference to CoVid, indeed a center row of seating had been entirely removed. Good as far as it went.
The booths lining the walls were not well spaced. Although highbacked, the seats in adjoining booths were less that two feet apart. A cough or sneeze would have easily cross-contaminated both dining zones. A Plexiglas partition would solve the problem easily. Like-wise a low partition separated the dining area from the bar. Not a problem when we arrived as there was one lone patron at the bar. That was not to last, however. As we proceeded through the meal, more and more folks packed the bar. By the time dessert came, the bar was standing room only with people shoulder to shoulder, not all with masks. Ciao seems to be a favored watering hole in Thomaston. We donned our masks as soon as we finished eating and settled our tab like a couple of bank robbers.
Enough with the grousing and on to the food. I usually like to order certain dishes when I am evaluating Italian cuisine in new locations. Manicotti or Raviolis are two revealing dishes, but my perennial favorite if it is on the menu is Putanesca. It is a rustic, spicy dish that can be delicious if done right. The entrée has its history, but I will leave to you, the reader, to check it out on Wikipedia.
The chef at Ciao must have a grandmother native to Italy. This is one of the best Putanescas I have ever encountered. The sauce was tangy, I think as a result of artichoke hearts and with just enough spice to gain your attention but not kill your tastebuds. A perfect blend of flavors. As an interesting twist, the pasta was small shells, the size and shape of tiny scallop shells, a very complimentary shape that provided just the right amount of pasta to sauce with each forkful.
Happy ordered chick parmesan. I had leftovers the next day. Tender chicken and a lot of it, smothered in cheese and sauce. As with the Putanesca, the sauce was outstanding, but different. Had to be somebody’s grandmother’s recipe.
Ciao is a keeper, although I think it will keep until the pandemic is over. I do not recommend it at this time. (See below)
FOOD = 9
Old world authentic Italian. Takes me back to the old neighborhood of my youth.
SERVICE = 6
Spotty service from the young man who waited on us. We agreed, he seemed to be new to the job. Got us situated and a drink order delivered, but then inquired if we knew what we wanted before even presenting us with menus. I ordered a montepulciano and it was like I was speaking . . . Italian? Waiter ignorance, not a lack of a staple wine. They delivered a fine glass to the table, tastey enough that I ordered a second half way through the meal. Had to remind the waiter when it didn’t arrive before we were almost finished with the meal. So much for sipping and enjoying.
Ambiance = 7
I could see that prepandemic this place would be a cozy and intimate Italian café. CoVid has knocked them for a loop. They took a row of smaller tables from the center of the floor space and replaced them with a line of banquet tables sans chairs. An effective barrier between the lines of booths on the walls, and I suppose gets them to the required fifty percent seating requirement, but does nothing for the atmosphere. And also those tables provide the waitstaff with a convenient common parking area for plates coming out of the kitchen. Not a good practice with a virus on the loose.
CoVid Response = 3
Beyond seating capacity limits and outdoor facilities, the ownership does not seem to embrace the seriousness of the times. I’ve captured the problems throughout this piece and will not belabor them further, but I do believe that Ciao should rethink their approach to the pandemic. To allow you bar to fill to the level of a potential super spreader event, is not responsible or fair to dining room patrons. Barflies were literally spilling around the partition and standing in the dining room drinks in hand and mask, if they had them, at half-mast.
Ciao is a great place for authentic Italian, but I wouldn’t recommend it before the pandemic ends. We won’t be going back anytime soon.